Saturday, November 16, 2024

Paris Fashion Week: emotional Loewe, and Valentino and Hermès’ tributes

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Paris Fashion Week is under way and while no show so far has had the disruptive energy of Prada or the carefree joy of Bottega Veneta in Milan, there are still two days to go. Here are some highlights from the shows so far, including the much-anticipated debut of Alessandro Michele at Valentino.
A leather coat with upturned hems and printed dresses at Loewe’s spring/summer 2025 show. Photo: EPA-EFE
This has been a banner year for Loewe, the LVMH-owned Spanish leather goods house helmed by Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, who recently marked his 10th anniversary at the house.

It’s no surprise then that Anderson, who looked visibly emotional while taking his bow, seemed to look back at his remarkable oeuvre with a show that had plenty of throwback moments.

Long-time fans will recognise elements such as the feather tops and trousers from a few seasons ago and other pieces that Anderson resurrected from years past, such as leather coats with upturned hems.

A feather T-shirt printed with Vincent van Gogh’s Sunflowers at Loewe’s spring/summer 2025 show. Photo: Handout
A feather T-shirt printed with Vincent van Gogh’s Sunflowers at Loewe’s spring/summer 2025 show. Photo: Handout

Those feather T-shirts were painted with iconic artworks such as Vincent van Gogh’s Sunflowers, and with portraits of legendary composers like Mozart and Bach.

In spite of the classical music references – the structure where the show took place was painted with a music sheet from one of Bach’s works – the soundtrack was a series of fast electronic beats until the very end, when a rendition of Bach’s “The Cello Suites” by Peter Gregson started playing as models walked for the finale.

The best looks were a series of long-sleeved mini dresses in what looked like stiff wool, the diaphanous faded floral print dresses with wire hoop skirts that opened the show and a chic leather cape paired with feather cargo pants in a camouflage pattern.

A leather cape paired with camouflage feather cropped trousers at Loewe’s spring/summer 2025 show. Photo: Handout
A leather cape paired with camouflage feather cropped trousers at Loewe’s spring/summer 2025 show. Photo: Handout

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