Maui fire: one year later, a resident tours the rubble
A Lahaina resident reflects on his family’s survival and the transformation of his town a year after the deadliest U.S. wildfire in over a century.
MAUI, Hawaii – One of the first things patrons see when they enter Mala Tavern is a sign telling people to avoid bringing up last year’s wildfires to the staff.
The oceanfront restaurant, located at the end of Lahaina’s famous Front Street, was one of just a few buildings to have survived the deadliest wildfire in the country in more than a century.
“It’s been really heavy, and it continues to be for people,” said Ashley Davis, co-owner of Mala Tavern.
With looming operation costs and some employees wanting to return to work, the restaurant reopened as soon as it got the green light from Maui County officials – in February, it was the first on Front Street to do so.
However, with the loss of Lahaina, Mala Tavern’s foot traffic is virtually gone, and business has yet to recover. In the past six years, the restaurant has already had to close several times, including due to the pandemic.
“We want to survive,” Davis said.
Mala Tavern’s experience mirrors that of many other Maui businesses as the island continues to grapple with the ongoing uncertainty of recovery from the devastating Aug. 8 fires, which ravaged historic Lahaina town in just hours, resulting in over 100 deaths and destroying homes, businesses, and cultural sites.
Over the past year, the Maui community has tried to balance the economic need for tourism with the emotional healing of what was lost. The island, especially Lahaina, is a tight-knit community, and many returning to work were directly affected by the fires or knew someone who was. The healing process has been far from easy.
The upcoming anniversary of the fires serves as a poignant reminder that responsible travelers who are sensitive to the tragedy and want to support the Maui community directly are the ones who are welcome.
“(The anniversary) is going to be emotional,” Davis said. “Support Maui in moving forward, be aware of what’s going on there, and try to help rather than hinder.”
‘A phoenix from the ashes’: How the landmark tree is faring a year after Maui wildfire
‘A delicate balance’
In the aftermath of the fires, potential travelers questioned if visiting would do more harm than good. Some residents advised staying away as they coped with the tragedy, while others who rely on tourism for their livelihoods pleaded for support. Maui’s economy highly depends on tourism, with about 70% of every dollar generated on the island involving it. In the past year, the island has since seen fewer travelers – and those financial losses have reverberated throughout the island.
In the first four months of 2024, Maui received 24% fewer visitors than the same time last year, causing a 22.5% decrease in visitor spending. Before the pandemic, Maui was the second-most visited island out of the four main Hawaiian islands for both first-time and repeat visitors, following Oahu.
“It’s a delicate balance,” said Davis. “I know people are worried about coming, but there are places that are open and need the support because that’s our economy, whether we like it or not.”
Businesses that were still recovering from the pandemic now face additional challenges in the aftermath of the fires, such as understaffing as many workers relocated to the other side of the island or left Maui entirely, according to Paula Hegele, president of MauiWine, Maui’s only winery located in Kula. Others chose not to return to work in the wake of their losses.
Surviving the inferno: How the Maui fire reshaped one family’s story
According to the payroll job count from June 2024, Maui County is still 6,300 jobs short from July 2023, with the hospitality sector accounting for over half of those job losses. Insurance claims from commercial properties claimed $1.2 billion in damages, with 316 businesses making claims, according to the State of Hawaii Department of Commerce and Consumer Affairs.
State projects to assist in Maui’s recovery include a Maui Business Bridge Grant to provide financial support, and as of July 31, over $10 million has been awarded. Another key project includes a Lahaina marketplace, “a space to host a variety of different businesses and offer a place for community to come together in support of each other,” said Department of Business, Economic Development and Tourism Director James Kunane Tokioka. “Through efforts like this, the state and county of Maui continue to support Maui businesses and Maui-made products.”
Hegele said MauiWine is busy on some days and sends employees home early on others due to the few visitors.
Although the future remains unclear, one thing is certain: the small businesses that have reopened fight forward to survive.
Nearly all of Maui has been open
Nearly all of Maui is open to visitors, with West Maui having welcomed travelers back on Oct. 8. The only off-limits area is the historic Lahaina town, which is still being cleared of debris, some of which is considered hazardous. Only Lahaina residents are allowed entry, and they must show proof of residency to the guards.
As of July, USA TODAY was able to visit the Aston Kaanapali Shores and Aston at The Whaler on Kaanapali Beach in West Maui, and the area was bustling with tourists. Businesses in Upcountry, like Alii Lavender Farm and MauiWine, also welcomed the reporter on this story. Even a snorkeling trip to Molokini Crater with Trilogy Excursions was possible. Despite recent fires near its entrance, Haleakala is open to visitors as well.
Vivien Van Leeuwen and her family visited Maui from Salt Lake City in late July, staying in Kaanapali and doing activities such as the Road to Hana and surfing lessons. Maui had been on the family’s bucket list, and they wanted to visit before the older son graduated high school. Still, Van Leeuwen knew she wanted to tread lightly in light of the fires and the family tipped generously everywhere they went.
“Knowing the history (of the fires), we were really respectful of the space and we tried not to take pictures of the areas and don’t gawk at it because it’s so insensitive and inappropriate,” Van Leeuwen told USA TODAY. Before the trip, she and her husband “prepared our kids” by teaching them not to mention the fires when meeting locals.
The trip ended up being one of the family’s favorites. “They were so hospitable everywhere we went,” she said.
Although it may seem like business as usual for most tourists, many Maui residents are still grieving, especially as the anniversary nears.
“Some of the challenges is finding that balance with tourism, you know, supporting the local economy, and welcoming that back while still holding space for our residents (during) the rebuilding and restoring of our community,” said Anna Enomoto, a Native Hawaiian born and raised on Maui and reservations manager at the Aston Kaanapali Shores in west Maui.
Driving through West Maui, signs of the August tragedy remain. Honoapiilani Highway, heading toward Lahaina, is lined with photos of those who lost their lives in the fire. The charred remains of homes and trees are still visible, serving as somber reminders.
‘A direct impact is the biggest change you can make’
Potential travelers often call Enomoto to ask if coming to Maui is OK and what’s open.
“The fact that you’re asking that question says so much to me, and also the reason why I want you to come,” Enomoto said. “You’re the type of visitor who’s very mindful. You’re sensitive to what happened.”
Enomoto encourages visitors to volunteer as a meaningful way to help Maui heal. The island offers a variety of volunteer opportunities, including farming, house-building, reforestation, translation, meal-prepping and beach clean-ups.
By spending quality time with the community and helping to “revitalize” the island, travelers will gain a deeper understanding of Maui’s history. “I think it will give visitors the chance to connect,” she said.
Most importantly, people should ensure their money goes directly into community members’ pockets, not just to the hotels. Supporting local businesses and tipping well are the first steps.
“People think them coming here is like they’re feeding us, that savior mentality, you need us to come here, without us you don’t thrive, but for us, that’s not the case,” Shannon Ii, a Native Hawaiian whose family lived in Lahaina for generations and lost their homes in the fire. “When you come to travel, are you impacting the community? Are you making it better or worse?”
Ii wants travelers to go one step further: help the locals you meet.
“Buy a gift card, and when you’re at a restaurant, give it to a server,” Ii said. “I bet you that server lost their home. A direct impact is the biggest change you can make.”
“That’s the biggest thing: bring your aloha with you, bring your open hearts because they will see it,” Enomoto said. “The local people will see if you’re genuinely caring about them.”