Gastronomika returns for its 26th edition, inspired by San Sebastian and with a global chef lineup
Gastronomika is returning this October from the 7th to 9th at the Kursaal in San Sebastian (Donostia) for its 26th edition. This year, adopting the slogan “San Sebastian open city” after the title of a poem by Gabriel Celaya, the congress seeks inspiration from the city itself.
The poem acts as the starting point for a programme designed to reconnect with the Basque community, with a focus on the region, the hotel and catering industry, restaurants, bars, gastronomic associations and prominent culinary figures. To achieve this, part of its activities will extend beyond the Kursaal, spotlighting local bars and restaurants and guiding congress delegates through tours of significant gastronomic associations.
As the longest-running gastronomy congress and a global benchmark for innovation, Gastronomika continues to transcend geographical boundaries. This year, it introduces the technical advisory committee, comprising renowned chefs like Elena Arzak, Eneko Atxa, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Aitor Arregi and Paulo Airaudo as well as international cooks such as Nieves Barragán and Aitor Zabala. A new founding committee has also been established, featuring notable figures including Juan Mari Arzak, Pedro Subijana and Martín Berasategui, further enhancing the congress’s dedication to culinary excellence.
Portugal as the guest of honour
This year, the festival shines a spotlight on Portuguese cuisine, showcasing its dynamism and innovation. José Avillez, the acclaimed chef behind Lisbon’s two Michelin-starred Belcanto, returns to Gastronomika after a seven-year hiatus. His presence underscores the significant moment Portuguese culinary arts are experiencing on the global stage. Avillez leads a delegation of celebrated Portuguese chefs including João Oliveira from Vista in Portimao, Rodrigo Castelo from Ó Balcão in Santarém, João Rodrigues of Canalha in Lisbon, Ana Moura from Lamelas in Porto Covo and Marlene Vieira from her eponymous restaurant in the capital.
International guests
The programme features an impressive lineup of international chefs from cities celebrated for their culinary contributions, including Copenhagen, Lima, London and Florence. Kristian Bauman from Koan in Copenhagen brings his unique blend of Nordic and Asian culinary styles. French chef Fabien Ferré, who achieved three Michelin stars in record time at La Table du Castellet, will showcase his skill in preparing seafood and vegetables with a style reminiscent of Matisse’s Provencal light.
Making his first appearance at Gastronomika, British chef Andrew Wong will share how he has innovatively adapted regional Chinese cuisines to the tastes of London, maintaining authenticity while incorporating modern twists. Additionally, Karime López of Osteria Gucci da Massimo Bottura, the first Mexican woman to earn a Michelin star, and Sebastian Frank of Horváth in Berlin, will demonstrate their deeply personal cooking styles, which reflect their rich heritage and personal histories.
From Latin America, Pía León and Virgilio Martínez will showcase their passion for Peru’s biodiversity, bringing ingredients and dishes that highlight their culinary heritage to San Sebastian. León, renowned for her inventive use of native ingredients, and Martínez, chef of Central, awarded the top spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list 2023, exemplify the pinnacle of Peruvian cuisine. Joining them from Chicago are Tim Flores and Genie Kwon, chefs and owners of Kasama, the first Filipino restaurant to earn a Michelin star. Their unique establishment functions as a bakery by day and a restaurant by night, offering a creative mix of Filipino flavours and modern dining in Chicago’s East Ukraine Village neighbourhood.
The Spanish culinary elite
Gastronomika will host a prominent assembly of Spain’s top chefs, including Oriol Castro, Eduard Xatruch, and Mateu Casañas from Disfrutar in Barcelona. Recently acclaimed as the best restaurant in the world by the 50 Best list, Disfrutar has also been awarded three Michelin stars, marking it as a pinnacle of global culinary achievement. They will be joined by culinary giants such as Joan Roca of El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Pedro Subijana of Akelarre in San Sebastian, and Eneko Atxa of Azurmendi in Larrabetzu, alongside the likes of Elena Arzak and Andoni Luis Aduriz. The event will also feature rising stars making their debut, such as Pedrito Sánchez of Bagá in Jaén, and recent Revelation Chef Award winners Jorge Muñoz and Sara Peral of OSA in Madrid. This gathering will not only showcase Spain’s rich culinary traditions but also highlight the innovative spirit driving its contemporary gastronomy.
Integrating AI in cuisine
Physicist Eneko Axpe, known for his collaborations with NASA and his academic role at Harvard, will demonstrate the intersection of science and gastronomy. His presentation will focus on how interdisciplinary approaches can foster innovative and sustainable culinary practices. Axpe is scheduled to provide a live demonstration on the use of artificial intelligence in high-end cooking, working alongside Andalusian chef Juanlu Fernández. This session exemplifies the spirit of innovation that defines Gastronomika and the Basque region, home to the world-renowned Basque Culinary Center, a leading hub for food research.
Focus on tavern culture and community engagement
2024 introduces the first Taverns and Tavernkeepers Forum, aimed at highlighting the pivotal role these establishments play in the local gastronomy scene. The forum will feature discussions led by some of the most prominent figures in the industry, alongside the World Tripe Championship and the San Sebastian Gastronomika Fish Soup Championship, which seek to celebrate and elevate traditional dishes.
The awards
The Gastronomika Awards will pay tribute to industry veterans and new talents. Pedro Subijana, a stalwart of Basque cuisine, will be honoured for his decades of culinary innovation. Mariano García, a respected winemaker, will be recognised for his contributions to the wine industry, particularly his work enhancing the reputation of Ribera del Duero wines.
Additionally, American journalist Lisa Abend will receive the Pau Albornà i Torras Prize for Gastronomic Journalism, celebrating her extensive reporting on European gastronomy and her impactful contributions to culinary literature.
An expansive culinary exhibition
The congress will also feature an extensive fair occupying the entire space of the Kursaal, with over 150 companies participating. This exhibition will provide a platform for professionals to showcase emerging trends, products, and technologies in the culinary world.
As Gastronomika 2024 approaches, it promises not only to showcase culinary artistry and innovation but also to foster a deeper connection between the culinary industry and the broader community, reinforcing its position as a key event in the international culinary calendar.
Food Desk
Gastronomika takes place in San Sebastian, Spain from 7th until 10th October 2024.