Wednesday, December 18, 2024

London Fashion Week highlights – from Burberry to Nensi Dojaka

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Creativity and discovery are always the main attractions of London Fashion Week, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year. New designers trying to make their mark and independent labels that have managed to build successful businesses reign in London, unlike other fashion capitals dominated by big luxury groups.
The Erdem spring/summer 2025 show was held at the British Museum in central London. Photo: AFP

Here are some highlights from a few exhilarating days of back-to-back shows and events that did justice to London’s community of fashion designers and creatives.

Model Lily Donaldson walks down the runway at the Burberry spring/summer 2025 show during London Fashion Week. Photo: AP
Model Lily Donaldson walks down the runway at the Burberry spring/summer 2025 show during London Fashion Week. Photo: AP

Burberry has been trying to revive the glory days of creative director Christopher Bailey for almost a decade now. It’s been an uphill battle for a brand that more than any other represents British luxury to the world.

The house is facing a dilemma: go upmarket and try to compete with the Pradas and Diors of the world (its current strategy), or make its products more accessible to become the British Coach?

The answer is in the hands of recently appointed CEO Joshua Schulman, who has his job cut out for him, and will also decide the fate of current creative director Daniel Lee. After a successful stint at Bottega Veneta, Lee has been trying to make the same impact at Burberry with mixed results.

A trench-inspired dress at the Burberry spring/summer 2025 show. Photo: Reuters
A trench-inspired dress at the Burberry spring/summer 2025 show. Photo: Reuters

The collection he presented on the last day of London Fashion Week was a tentative – and very safe – step in the right direction. A continuation of his autumn/winter show, the range injected Burberry’s heritage as a utilitarian outerwear brand with a dose of glamour, which came in the form of some beautiful sequinned pieces.

Trench-inspired dresses – the best looks in the show – feather-embellished hooded jackets, coats in distressed leather, cargo pants and a smattering of Burberry’s signature check print completed the line-up.

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